CORN SNAKE
Introduction
Corn snakes (Elaphe guttata guttata) are one of the most available
snakes in the pet trade today. Vast numbers of corn snakes are captive bred
annually, and they are justifiably one of the most popular snakes of all
time. Corn snakes are relatively small, rarely exceeding five feet in
length, active feeders, tolerate a wide variety of environmental conditions,
and are usually docile. All of these factors combined make the corn snake an
excellent choice for both the beginning and advanced reptile hobbyist.
Although corn snakes are one of the easiest reptiles to keep in captivity,
special attention must still be paid to their proper captive care. Proper
captive care includes several factors: enclosure size, substrate (what's on
the bottom of the cage), appropriate heating, and feeding.
Enclosure
Size
Corn snakes are relatively small, and as such, they do not require large
enclosures. A baby corn snake can happily live in a 24" vivarium or
enclosure of similar size. Some people choose to keep baby corn snakes in
plastic shoeboxes with holes punched in the side. This type of enclosure is
acceptable as long as appropriate heating is provided. Upon reaching full
adult size (about three to four years), a corn snake will require an
enclosure with the minimum dimensions of a standard 36"+ long
aquarium. No matter whether your corn snake lives in
a humble home or a palace, there are several important details to keep in
mind when setting up your new pet.
Substrate
The substrate of a cage is the material that is on the bottom. There are
appropriate and not so appropriate choices of substrate in corn snake
housing. Cedar or pine shavings are unacceptable substrates because these
materials contain substances that irritate the respiratory systems of corn
snakes. Corn cob bedding (manufactured for use with birds) should not be
used as a substrate because it causes excessive drying of dermal tissues and
can cause serious intestinal blockage if swallowed. Acceptable substrates
include reptile bark, butcher paper, paper towels and Astroturf.
Reptile bark can be purchased in pet stores, and is attractive and natural-looking. Butcher paper can be acquired in many places such as home depot or art supply stores. This substrate, while not particularly attractive, allows one to keep the cage very clean by continuously replacing the soiled paper. Paper towels have the same advantages and disadvantages of butcher paper. Astroturf can be used, but it does tend to rot easily if wetted, so it is best to have several pieces cut to fit the cage so you can rotate dirty and clean pieces.
Appropriate
Heating
There are several choices for appropriate corn snake heating. Whatever
choice of heating is used, it is very important to provide one area of the
cage where the ambient (air) temperature is 80-85 degrees F. Corn snakes,
like all reptiles, do not make their own body heat and rely on a behavioral
mechanism called thermoregualtion to regulate their body temperature.
Thermoregulation means that when a reptile is too cool, it moves to an area
to warm itself, and when it is too hot, it moves to a cooler area. Access to
warm areas are critically important to the health of your snake. Appropriate
heating is required for proper digestion and the effective functioning of
the immune system.
If the tank has a screen top, a shop light or metal reflector may be placed on top of the cage, to one side, with a heating bulb inside to create a basking area of 80-85 degrees F. Another method of heating is the use of quality undertank heating pads. Undertank heaters are plastic with one adhesive side. The adhesive side of the heater is used to attach it to the bottom of the outside of the tank, on one side of the cage. These heaters can only be used with certain types of cages, so check the directions before purchase. Hot rocks are not recommended for corn snake heating for several reasons.
Hot rocks provide a localized heat source that is often too hot. As a result, the snake will curl itself about the rock in an attempt to raise its body temperature, this can result in serious thermal burns. Think about this from the snake's point of view. One tiny area of the cage is 100 degrees F, and the rest of the cage is freezing. Without some type of heat, reptiles will get sick, so the animal will use whatever source of heat is provided, even if it is too hot. Some of the new hot rocks that have thermostats are a much better choice if a hot rock must be used. If not, at least burying the hot rock in some substrate will help to diffuse the heat. It is much better to provide indirect heating, or heating that the animal has no direct access to. This will prevent thermal burns from occurring.
Feeding
Corn snakes are rarely picky eaters if they have the proper heat and
enclosure. One important aspect of feeding that is often overlooked is the
addition of hiding areas to the cage. Corn snakes, like most snakes, like to
feel secure in their environment. One way of providing for this need to is
put hiding spots in the enclosure. Hiding spots can be made of anything, as
long as the snake can completely fit inside the area and hide itself from
view. Old cardboard boxes are good for this, but so are many of the
commercially manufactured hiding spots available in pet stores. A hiding
spot should be placed both on the warm end and the cool end of the cage, so
that the animal can feel secure in any spot. Corn snakes kept without
appropriate hiding areas become stressed and may refuse to eat.
Hatchling corn snakes begin eating pinky mice, and progress up to adult mice once they are mature. A good rule of thumb is to feed the snake a food item that is the same, or close to, the snake's diameter. Feed an item that is too large, and the snake will often regurgitate it. Snakes will also regurgitate if they do not have a warm area or if they are handled too soon after they eat. Corn snakes can be fed two times a week, but once is usually enough. Clean water should be available at all times, corn snakes drink often.
